The art of the Butterman and margarine

Each customer's order was individually prepared: you could buy as little as 2oz (56g). Portions were made using a hardwood beater (or 'pat') and slice. The grooved beater held the butter firmly and the slice cut the portions to the correct weight.

The slice had a fine edge which was sharpened using a piece of glass. Beaters and slices were scrubbed several times a day. The work of the 'butterman' required dexterity. They usually worked at counters close to the window where passers-by could see their deft display.

Margarine was invented in 1869 as a cheap butter substitute and was marketed as 'butterine' until this misleading term was banned in 1887. Sainsbury's premium margarine was originally called 'Cremos', but was renamed 'Crelos' following the 1907 Margarine Act, which made it illegal to use brand names suggesting dairy products.

By 1914, margarine accounted for 75% of the sales of Maypole Dairies. It was not as important to Sainsbury's business as to some other retailers, because Sainsbury's main emphasis had always been on quality butter.